Cosala Turns on Its Magic About 99 Milles From Mazatlan Mexico

Cosala turns on its magic

Until a few years ago, the little storybook town of Cosala in the mountains of western Mexico could have been the poster child for the expression, “off the beaten track.” The few tourists who came by – typically on their way to go fishing in nearby lakes – likely never knew they were driving through what was once one of the richest cities in the country.

Cosala was loaded with the shiny stuff.

Silver miners hit paydirt here in 1562, and the town was soon brimming with the mansions of wealthy mineowners, elaborate churches, porticoed walkways and all the other splendors of colonial Spain. Cosala's mines produced so much silver that the city became the capital of Mexico's immense State of the West (a combination of the country's present-day states of Sinaloa and Sonora).
The mines eventually petered out, but Cosala (pronounced co-sah-LAH) hit another kind of paydirt in 2005 – thanks in large part to its 2,000 historic sites, many now housing everything from bars to barbershops.
What finally put Cosala on the tourism map was a program launched by the Mexican government to promote “the charming architecture, exquisite gastronomy and traditional festivities” of some three dozen small cities across the country. They're called “Pueblos Magicos,” or magic cities, and Cosala was a shoe-in for membership in that prestigious club.
The city has been spruced up quite a bit since it made the list in 2005. For example, the formerly drab colored shops and homes lining its narrow lanes have been restored to their original kaleidoscope of pastel browns, blues, greens, yellows and reds. Its church and other buildings have been facelifted, and its streets look like they could have been bricked in only yesterday. Actually, some were.
Sights like these were enjoyed by some 34,000 visitors last year, roughly double the count before the city was tapped by Mexico's magic wand. And the count is still climbing by leaps and bounds.
A good number of Cosala's guests are Americans taking a break from vacations down the coast in the big-time resort at Mazatlan. They come to the smaller city to sample its charm for a day or two, having heard about Cosala back home or from tour operators in Mazatlan.

Fiestas feature local youngsters.

Mayor Juan Martinez wants you to know that visitors are welcome to rub elbows with the local folks at the city's traditional free fiestas. They're staged on Friday and Saturday nights (and also on other nights, seemingly at the drop of a sombrero). Among highlights of the entertainment, singers belt out everyone's favorite Mexican songs and dancers from tots to teens act out old-time Sinaloan folk tales.

Showgirl struts her stuff.

Pleasantly, there are a number of things you won't see here. Like tacky souvenir stands, fake watch stalls and kids selling burro rides. Also, you won't spot any Burger Kings or Pizza Huts or any other American fast-food imports. Suppose you get a Big Mac attack? Not to worry, there's a place on the town square named “Exquisite Hamburgers and Hot Dogs.”
Some visitors stick around for a few extra days to enjoy activities in the surrounding areas. About five miles away, for instance, the Vado Hondo nature preserve lets wannabe-Tarzans soar over the jungle canopy on seven ziplines and rope-sided walkways, ending with a rappel down a 30-foot-high tree. Other nearby attractions include bathing in hot springs, exploring caverns, birdwatching and buying right-off-the-loom goods in handicraft villages.
Anyone for fishing? You can toss your lines out on several lakes around these parts known for their trophy-class Black Bass. At one, Lake Comedero, anglers average 40 to 60 daily catch-and-releases per boat, typically weighing 8 to 12 pounds and some up to 15 pounds. Guests stay in a luxury lakeside lodge (check out http://www.mexicobassadventures.com/).

Ay, yay, yay, yay....

Visitors to Cosala have their pick of a dozen or so tourist-class restaurants, all within walking distance of their hotels (as is just about everything else in town). Top places to dine include El Pueblito, the Merendero and El Sazon de Dona Tichi. Among regional specialties are machaca dishes, chorizo, tamales, empanadas and white cheeses, typically served with blue tortillas.

Getting there: Some 10 major airlines offer service to Mazatlan from cities across the U.S. Day trips and overnight tours of Cosala can be booked by your travel agent or at hotels in Mazatlan.
Staying there: Cosala has nine hotels with a total of some 220 rooms. A little over 50 of these are in the pleasant colonial-style Hacienda Quinta Minera (http://www.hotel-quintaminera.com/) where rates start at about $60 a night.
More info: Cosala's two best websites are http://www.vivesineloa.com/ and http://www.cosala.gob.mx/. Right now they're both Spanish-only, but officials say English versions of the sites will be available soon. Details on the magic city program can be found on the Mexico Tourism Board's site at http://www.visitmexico.com/ (click the Travel Experiences button at top, then Discover More and then Magical Villages). For Mazatlan, check out the hotel association's site
http://www.tibesarealty.com.mx/
www.tibesarealty.com.mx/wordpress/

Story and photos by Bob Schulman